Finding the Beat: Asking for Stage Times at Dominican Street Festivals

First Beats in Santo Domingo I still remember the first time I chased music down the Malecón in Santo Domingo. Ten years ago I was a fresh-faced expat who could order a cold Presidente but didn’t know how to ask when the next merengue band would come on. The sun was sliding into the Caribbean, […]

Talking to Dominican Plumbers: Water-Pressure Complaints and Parts Names

When the Shower Becomes a Drizzle Three months after I moved into a pastel-green apartment in Santo Domingo Este, my morning shower performed a magic trick—it vanished. One minute I had a respectable stream; the next, a tired drip that couldn’t rinse a coffee cup. I marched out, shampoo still in my hair, and waved […]

Colombian Comedor Ejecutivo Lunches: Ordering Three-Course Meals Like a Local

From Santo Domingo to Medellín—My Introduction to the “Comedor Ejecutivo” I still remember the first time I traded the Caribbean humidity of Santo Domingo for Medellín’s crisp mountain air. I had landed at José María Córdova airport famished, and my Paisa friend Juan insisted we skip the touristy stuff and head straight to a tiny […]

Renting a Mountain Cabin Near Jarabacoa: Reservation Spanish & Safety

Roosters at Dawn: How a Last-Minute Cabin Plan Became My Spanish Classroom The first time I tried to book a mountain cabin in Jarabacoa, my Dominican friend Carlos swore, “Eso es fácil, manito, lo resolvemos por WhatsApp.” I believed him—after all, I’d survived ten hurricane seasons, two bachata break-ups, and a dozen weekend hops to […]

Medellín Book-Club Spanish: Hosting and Discussing Novels

Last Tuesday night, under the soft glow of my apartment’s bombillos ahorradores, I realized my three worlds were colliding. I had invited my Dominican neighbor Félix, two Colombian friends from Envigado, and a visiting Canadian expat to my monthly book-club in Medellín. The novel on the docket was Junot Díaz’s “La breve y maravillosa vida […]

Colombian Biometric ID Renewal: Fingerprint & Photo Spanish That Opens Doors

How a Smudged Thumbprint Sent Me Down a Linguistic Rabbit Hole Two months ago, while renewing my cédula de extranjería at the Registraduría Nacional in Bogotá, I pressed my thumb on the scanner and heard the clerk sigh: “Señor, su huella está borrosa.” My print looked like abstract art, and suddenly I was the guy […]